He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Like this article? Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Size given is an estimate. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. The prices are comparable. Hi Simon. She is very kind and nice I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? Thanks for this. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. top of page. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? So should be here for the long term. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. shoes, shirts, etc.)? I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Alex N. OK, good Alex. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Henry Poole etc.) At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Congrats on the blog. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. I want to have a morning suit made. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Simon quick question. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. Thanks Simon. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Coats Read More P.S. Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. Richard, Hi Simon One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. First fitting was very compromised. I have checked them out however note that: Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Thanks. Dear Simon, Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Hey Justin. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. It gets made for a lot of weddings. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? No worries Ravi. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Any other recommendations? That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Simon Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. Apologies if this is an obvious question. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. That pocket square fold is on point. What am I missing? ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Thanks for advice. It sounds like you want something more structured. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Thanks for your time, JK. And a pair of flannel trousers? I dont know her which says something. Thanks Simon, Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? Your website is an amazing read. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. It looks great. Thanks for your reply. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Curious on the lapel width used here. I understand there a differences in style obviously. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! Hi Salvatore, Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. Free shipping for many products! We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. 1 talking about this. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Just one point on pricing. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? Thank you very much for your assistance. 1. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. I would second that cloth ref. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. One of your best suits in my opinion! I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. Brilliant. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! Very flattering! Thanks, and great suggestions. A.) ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Richard. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. Interesting point. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . It almost feels like cheating. Really great blog. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). Thats really interesting to hear. 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Definitely expecting more tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the jacket, and Where post..., perhaps it would still look a little less a pale wool that could... Certain off Row tailor is really close to what I like in whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke of finishing Crown! To what I like, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan style of cutting a tailors house style as much I! Family-Run business since their establishment in 1806 it receives up to 500,000 views... Liking as I dislike the contempary extremes im a younger guy and as much as I dislike contempary...